If you are just starting to sew, chances are someone has told you: “start with cotton”. And it makes sense. It is a pleasant fabric, easy to find and quite forgiving of mistakes. But behind the word “cotton” there are many different fabrics, and it helps to know which one to choose for each garment.
What cotton is
Cotton is a natural fibre obtained from the cotton plant, which has been grown for thousands of years in different parts of the world. Threads are made from that fibre and then woven or knitted, and from them come very different fabrics: from an almost transparent gauze to a thick twill for trousers.
Why it is so popular for sewing
- It is breathable. It lets air through and is usually pleasant against the skin.
- It behaves predictably. It does not slip or shift too much when cutting and sewing.
- It takes the iron well, and the iron is the best ally of good sewing.
- It is easy to find in almost any haberdashery or fabric shop.
The most common types
- Poplin: light, smooth and slightly stiff. Widely used for shirts and blouses.
- Twill: thicker, with a pronounced diagonal. Used for trousers and jackets.
- Batiste and voile: fine and light, with a soft drape. Perfect for blouses and summer dresses.
- Flannel: soft and warm to the touch, made for pyjamas and light warm garments.
- Cotton jersey: stretchy and comfortable, for T-shirts. It does call for a different sewing technique, though.
Which garments it suits best
Shirts, blouses, summer dresses, skirts, trousers, pyjamas and accessories such as pouches or bags. If you are unsure what to choose for a particular dress, you may find helpful which fabric to choose for a dress (and how many metres you need).
A tip before cutting
Wash and iron cotton before cutting it. It can shrink the first time it is washed, and it is better for it to do so before it becomes your garment. In the next article of the series we cover in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of cotton.
If you want to put it into practice, in our collection of sewing patterns you will find garments designed for getting started.
