You open a pattern and there they are: arrows, little triangles, dashed lines, circles... A bunch of symbols that look like they're from a treasure map. And in a way, they are, because each one is giving you an important instruction to make sure your garment turns out well.
If you already know how to read a pattern in general, this article is the perfect complement: a symbol-by-symbol dictionary so you won't have any doubts. Save it as a cheat sheet and refer to it whenever you find a mark you don't recognize.
Lines: where to cut and where to sew
Cutting lines
These mark the outline of each piece, i.e., where you cut the fabric. On multi-size patterns, you'll see several lines together, each for a different size and often with a distinct style (solid, dashed, dotted, or striped). Before cutting, clearly identify your size and follow it without jumping from one to another.
Stitch line and seam allowance
The stitch line indicates where to run the needle. The space between that line and the edge of the fabric is the seam allowance (usually 1 or 1.5 cm). Be careful: some patterns already include it and others don't, so always check what yours indicates.
Fold line ("place on fold")
This is a line, sometimes with a folded arrow at the ends, which means that the piece is not cut entirely, but is placed on folded fabric to obtain a symmetrical piece (for example, the back of a t-shirt). If you cut it as a single piece, it will turn out half the size. A classic beginner's mistake.
The star symbol: grainline
The grainline is a long arrow, usually double-ended, that appears on each piece. It tells you how to place the piece on the fabric: this arrow must be parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric).
Why is it so important? Because fabric grain has a direction, and placing the pieces correctly is what makes the garment drape properly and not distort with wear. It is one of the most important symbols and, at the same time, one of the most ignored by beginners.
Matching marks: to make everything fit
Notches
These are small marks (lines or triangles) on the edge of the pieces that help them match up, like puzzle pieces. A notch on one piece pairs with the same notch on another. Sometimes you'll see single and double notches: these help prevent confusion, for example, between the front and back of a sleeve.
Dots and circles
Dots or circles indicate key locations: where a seam starts or ends, where a dart goes, where a pocket or detail is placed. Mark them on the fabric (with tailor's chalk or a pin) before separating the pattern, because they are hard to guess later.
Shape markings: darts, pleats, and gathers
Darts
Darts are drawn as a triangle or an elongated diamond with lines pointing to a dot. They are used to shape the garment, removing fabric in areas like the bust or waist to fit the body. They are folded and sewn along these lines to the point.
Pleats and tucks
These are usually indicated with lines and arrows that show the direction in which the fabric should be folded (where each pleat goes). Pay close attention to the direction of the arrows: a pleat folded incorrectly changes the look of the garment.
Gathers
Gathers are often marked with a wavy line or with two dots between which you need to "shrink" the fabric with long stitches to create volume (typical for skirts or puffed sleeves).
Position marks: buttons, zippers, and pockets
Many patterns indicate where to place elements with specific symbols:
- Buttons: usually an X or a small circle.
- Buttonholes: a short line (sometimes with stops at the ends) marking their size and position.
- Zippers: a mark along the seam indicating how far it extends.
- Pockets: a dotted line or outline indicating their exact location.
Adjustment marks: lengthen or shorten
A very useful symbol that many beginners don't know: "lengthen or shorten here" lines. These are two parallel lines (often double) located in areas like the body or sleeve length.
They indicate the exact point where you can modify the pattern's length without distorting its shape, by adding or subtracting centimeters right there. Ideal for adapting the garment to your height.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most important symbol on a pattern? The grainline. Placing the pieces following that arrow is what makes the garment drape well and not distort. Ignoring it is one of the most common mistakes.
Do all patterns use the same symbols? The basic ones (grainline, notches, darts, fold) are practically universal. Even so, every pattern includes a legend that explains its symbols: always consult it if you have doubts.
What do the two small triangles together on the edge mean? They are double notches. They serve to differentiate similar pieces and avoid confusing, for example, the front of a sleeve with the back.
Do I have to mark all the symbols on the fabric? The joining and position symbols (notches, dots, darts), yes: they save you a lot of trouble when assembling the garment. Mark them before removing the pattern from the fabric.
Deciphering patterns is a matter of practice
At first, symbols can be intimidating, but once you sew a couple of garments, you'll recognize them almost without thinking. And it becomes much easier when you start with well-explained patterns.
At BERA Patterns, we design digital patterns with clear instructions and video tutorials to make reading and interpreting a pattern a breeze. If you also want to refresh the basics, here's our guide on how to read a pattern from start to finish.
