When someone says “satin”, almost everyone pictures a shiny, soft fabric with an elegant drape. That is true, but there is a detail that is often overlooked and that completely changes how you choose and sew it: satin is not a fibre, it is a way of weaving.
What satin really is
Satin is a type of weave, that is, the way the threads of the fabric are interlaced. In satin, the threads in one direction “float” over those in the other for quite a distance before crossing. This creates a very smooth surface that reflects light, and that is where its characteristic sheen comes from.
The important thing: because it is a weave and not a fibre, it can be made of very different materials.
What it can be made of
- Silk satin: the most luxurious, with a very fine feel.
- Polyester satin: the most common and affordable. It keeps its sheen very well and is easy to find.
- Acetate or viscose satin: with a fluid drape, but more delicate.
- Cotton satin (sateen): with a softer sheen and a more matte feel.
That difference matters when buying, because how each one behaves when sewing, washing and ironing is different. It is always worth checking the composition on the label.
A little history
The origin of this type of weave is usually attributed to China, where it developed alongside silk. Over time it travelled along trade routes until it reached Europe, where it became highly prized for ceremonial clothing and decorative fabrics.
Which garments it is used for
Party dresses, fluid blouses, midi skirts, nightdresses, lingerie and linings. It is a fabric that looks stunning, which is why it is almost always chosen for garments where a special finish is wanted.
Before you take it on
Satin has a reputation for being hard to sew, and it is true that it needs a little more care than cotton. In the next article we explain when it is worth choosing and when another fabric is better.
If you want to see which garments suit a fluid fabric, take a look at our collection of PDF dresses.